--- title: "Vol.262｜且加餐：运河、盐商与清真菜，沧州饮食考古｜主播：何必" source_name: "东腔西调" original_url: "https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6" canonical_url: "https://www.traeai.com/articles/5a97a77d-9e17-4276-9f15-f36c04bab5b6" content_type: "podcast" language: "中文" score: 5 tags: [] published_at: "2026-04-24T10:00:00+00:00" created_at: "2026-04-24T11:26:20.979674+00:00" --- # Vol.262｜且加餐：运河、盐商与清真菜，沧州饮食考古｜主播：何必 Canonical URL: https://www.traeai.com/articles/5a97a77d-9e17-4276-9f15-f36c04bab5b6 Original source: https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6 ## Summary traeai 为开发者、研究员和内容团队筛选高质量 AI 技术内容，提供摘要、评分、趋势雷达与一键内容产出。 ## Key Takeaways - - - ## Content Title: Vol.262｜且加餐：运河、盐商与清真菜，沧州饮食考古｜主播：何必 URL Source: http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6 Markdown Content: ![Image 1](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVpqVTNORGszWW1aaU5XRmxPRGd5TURrMU1UTmtaR0psTUdRd1pqQmhZekZmU0hRMU9XNXBUakp5YldGelNrWk9hSG93YldneVRuaDRibHBrVUVWR2VUQmZWRzlyWlc0NlNFWlBNMkpDTVU1RGIxaExTblo0ZUZaVFJXTjVjM0p2YmpCalh6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) “沧州依运河而兴，也依运河而衰。” 提起沧州，你的第一印象是什么？是《水浒传》里林冲刺配的荒凉边城，还是神医喜来乐与赛西施的传奇故事？本期「且加餐」，我们沿着京杭大运河一路北上，踏入历史上那个因漕运与盐业而繁荣的真正沧州。 这里曾是北方盐业转运的中心，长芦盐场的财富滋养了堪比扬州、自贡的盐商阶层；这里也是漕粮北运的关键节点，南来北往的货物与人群在此汇聚；明初的回民北迁，更为此地带来了精湛的清真烹饪技艺，这些共同构成了沧州饮食的独特底色。本期节目，我们将一同揭开沧州作为运河商贸重镇的兴衰史，品味在咸鲜口背后，一个地域的物产、交通、族群与阶层如何共同烹制出一桌好菜。 ### 【本期主播】 何必，北京大学历史学博士 ### 【收听指南】 [01:03](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 沿运河北上聊沧州历史与美食 [05:10](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 从林冲的旧沧州（清池县），到神医喜来乐的新沧州（长芦县） [11:49](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 新老沧州变迁：黄河淤积海岸线，与长芦盐运司的设立 [15:31](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 漕粮分段转运，让沧州聚集起大量非农业人口 [20:51](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 供应京师的商品化农产品：黄骅冬枣、青县鸭梨、“御河棉”乃至“佟家花园”的鲜花 [25:51](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 沧州的衰落：晒盐法改进，盐运司移驻天津，以及清代漕运改海运 [30:31](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 沧州饮食底色：盐商、运河、清真饮食 [33:41](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 回民社群的形成：与明永乐迁都相关的“南京移民”传说 [38:50](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 义和饭店：全爆、炒饼与沧州咸鲜口的锅气 [45:56](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 二辉老菜馆：葱椒羊肉、苜蓿干贝与“扒”素菜的技法 [50:09](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 鲁菜的一大特点，是厨师如何在食材有限的情况下调动鲜味 [55:19](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 高玛纳驴肉火烧：河间派的“凉肉”火烧与地方天主教 [59:26](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 呼应天津：长芦盐运司的转移，如何奠定了天津作为北方盐商菜起点的基础 [1:06:34](http://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69eaa91f1e94ae69210397c6) 运河最后站点通州：小楼饭店与北京饮食的“最大公约数化” ![Image 2](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPU56WXdOR1V6WkdGaFpEQTFNemt5TWpJME9UbG1PRGt4WmpsaU9XTTFaamRmU0hjd1JFVkphRWR2YzFjMmNVNVJOamRKTkZaTFQyeFdUM1JMYTFnd1FtVmZWRzlyWlc0NlVWcFBhR0pQWkhSTWIxSnlkVzU0TVV3d09HTkhlVmxRYmxWa1h6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) ### 【工具箱】 01 长芦盐场是中国海盐产量最大的盐场，也是中国三大盐场之一。长芦盐场历史可追溯至后唐同光三年（925年）设立的芦台场，其盐砖为明清皇室御用贡品。明洪武二年（1369年）设河间长芦都转运盐使司，驻沧州长芦镇，清代盐务机构迁至天津后仍沿用“长芦”称谓。 02 沧州铁狮子又称镇海吼**，**始铸于953年，为镇水患而建；清代曾倒塌又重立。20世纪50年代后多次修缮因方法不当反致损伤，2006年纳入专项保护研究。2011年重铸新狮，置于狮城公园。 03 开中法是明清政府实行的以盐、茶为中介，召募商人输纳军粮、马匹等物资的方法，即“召商输粮而与之盐，谓之开中”，大致分为报中、守支、市易三步。报中是盐商按照明政府的招商榜文所要求的，把粮食运到指定的边防地区粮仓，向政府换取盐引；守支是盐商换取盐引后，凭盐引到指定的盐场守候支盐；市易是盐商把得到的盐运到指定的地区销售。 04 大都河间等路都转运盐使司为元代掌管盐务的三品官署，隶属户部，负责盐场榷税及供给国家财政。 05 何必老师的探店： ![Image 3](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVpUTm1NRGszTlRJeE5EZ3lZV1JrTkRObE16VmpNelUzWTJNNE5UZzVPR05mVWtkSGFXa3dUR3RyTVZKd04yRnJXR3c0WVhKTVpVbHFTVXR2ZUdaUVdqUmZWRzlyWlc0NlVrTjNNMkkwWldWWGIzcHFja040YjFobVpHTlBSSFJVYmxWblh6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _义和饭店加了青瓜的“全爆”_ ![Image 4](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVkySTJaV0ZtT0dZMk1qazFZakZsT0RBeE1EZzFZalEyWlRSak5XUXhPVE5mZEZselJFOXFZVkZTUkZaUFFVeFBiVXRuTlhnNE0xZDVZMjVETVVkaU5tOWZWRzlyWlc0NlJXNDRhR0pUT1hGTWIwSmlNVTE0WkVORFptTnVSVU4xYmxwa1h6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _义和饭店的辣子鸡_ ![Image 5](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPU9UWmpPR0k0WWpCbU1qTTJaakF3TnpGa05XTmlPRFZsTWpnek1XUXlObU5mZGpKSGVVazBjSEZVVkhOVWRsTk9WVGh5TjJSUVJFZHlOamxYT0UweFV6SmZWRzlyWlc0NlUyaEhhV0oxY0V0NGIzUlpWbmw0UkRWWE9HTnJNMk5oYm5SYVh6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _义和饭店的“锅气”炒饼_ ![Image 6](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPU5tUm1NelpoWkRNek1XUTBaREkxWkdFMVlqY3laV1ZpT1Rrd01USm1PVFZmYmxGNmJ6ZzVURlZpWkZaaGIwMTBPV2MyWVVSbVZ6QjNOWFZtY0U1V1ZHNWZWRzlyWlc0NlRHRjVUR0k0UzA1bWIySkpXbTk0VlhoaFFXTmlSVlpJYmtab1h6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _二辉老菜馆的葱椒羊肉_ ![Image 7](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVpEUmxOVGMyT0RJeU5UZzROVEJrTVdOaE9UZzNNMk0xWVdNeFptUm1ObVJmVkhwU01UbHZSRUk1WlhaM05ITnNZbmRxTmxkM2J6UTRXbk0zU0hWU1ZUVmZWRzlyWlc0NlJXaElTR0poVUZSemIxaExVVzU0VVUxc1JXTnFlWGh2Ym1Ga1h6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _二辉老菜馆的苜蓿干贝_ ![Image 8](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVpqQmtaams1WTJJNE1USmtaRGxpTTJNd05XWXdNalJtTm1RellUUTBNRFpmWmxKUU5WTk5UMVZwVm5kcmFFNTBSSGR5WlVaNFNEUjBlSEp2UzNwRVVqbGZWRzlyWlc0NlMzRlJXR0pzUTFsWWIwUnljV3A0TVZseFNtTm1hRUV3Ympsa1h6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _二辉老菜馆的鸡油扒冬瓜_ ![Image 9](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPU16RXlOemd4TlRWa00yWXpPV0V4TXpaalptWTBOamhpTkRjeU1XVTNNMlJmWVVGS2VXTkdOV1J0U1RkM1dUUjRiMWMwYzNsaU9USmFTbEJZT0dkV016VmZWRzlyWlc0NlJrTnZWMkl3UkRNM2IyeHNaSGg0VFVWTlIyTnlNVkZ4YmxWaVh6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _高玛纳驴肉火烧_ ![Image 10](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVl6Y3daR0ZtWm1Fd05XVTRPV1prTmpZMFpUSTJPVFprWW1SbFpUTTFZbUZmVDJKNmJGRk5SVXhvTVc0eFZWZFhlSEJqUlcxNFQzaEVTalpxVERKRGFXNWZWRzlyWlc0NlRVaEllR0pQYVdJd2IzTlFlRVY0VVVWM1ltTnhZVGhoYm1GbFh6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _天津益发顺的红烧牛蛇尾_ ![Image 11](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPVkySmhZbVU1T1dSaE56STJNV1V4TURreE4yWTJZemMyTnpnMlpEaGlZMk5mVVUxUVNtRlJiMnBRYkdSaFVYSkZUakkzWnpaaVpXdFdVR2MxV1hGT2JVNWZWRzlyWlc0NlZYVjBlV0pVVkZsMWJ6Qmtkemg0U1hZMWVXTmFaRFpTYm05bFh6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _小楼饭店的醋溜木须_ ![Image 12](https://bts-image.xyzcdn.net/aHR0cHM6Ly9laWRvcy5mZWlzaHUuY24vc3BhY2UvYXBpL2JveC9zdHJlYW0vZG93bmxvYWQvYXN5bmNjb2RlLz9jb2RlPU5HSmpPREpqTjJJeE5qQTJNRFEzT1RJelpHSTFaRE5pTm1NeFlqYzNPVE5mZDBoSWJqQk5aek5YZERSQllYQlhOalExWVVGbFJuSmhSalYyVG14bWVXMWZWRzlyWlc0NlVta3llV0p0Y0hGV2IzQlFORlo0TlhnMWRtTlBURWN3Ym5sa1h6RTNOelk1T0RZeU1UazZNVGMzTmprNE9UZ3hPVjlXTkE=) _小楼饭店的块烧鲶鱼_ ### 【相关往期】 [Vol.261｜且加餐：鲁菜是如何炼成的｜主播：何必](https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69a12fd8de29766da9ba1708?s=eyJ1IjoiNjI1YzM1YjllZGNlNjcxMDRhNmI3Njg1In0%3D) [Vol.257｜且加餐：粤菜是如何炼成的｜嘉宾：林斯澄](https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/69a12fd8de29766da9ba1708?s=eyJ1IjoiNjI1YzM1YjllZGNlNjcxMDRhNmI3Njg1In0%3D) [Vol.251｜且加餐：好嘛，冬至去天津吃点嘛mà？｜嘉宾：孟庆延](https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/694e1fcd6093377067ae62c0?s=eyJ1IjoiNjI1YzM1YjllZGNlNjcxMDRhNmI3Njg1In0%3D) [Vol.247｜且加餐：从火塘到AI，厨房里的文明史｜嘉宾：任富佳×李筠](https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/691560496018cc2c989e048c?s=eyJ1IjoiNjI1YzM1YjllZGNlNjcxMDRhNmI3Njg1In0%3D) [Vol.87丨山河纪：大运河，黄泛区，帝国最后的斜阳](https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/6221e545fd275eebbcf98a90?s=eyJ1IjoiNjI1YzM1YjllZGNlNjcxMDRhNmI3Njg1In0%3D) ### 【关于我们】 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